Quick overview for dahlia lovers
Rooted dahlia cuttings give you a head start: they’re young shoots already producing roots, true to variety, and ready to become confident, flowering plants in a single season. At Bloomlier we send cuttings that have at least three pairs of true leaves, are vigorous, and fit comfortably in a small pot for 2–4 weeks before planting out. With a little attention in those first weeks, you’ll enjoy robust plants and earlier blooms than with tubers or seedlings planted directly into the garden.
Supplies you’ll need
– Pots: 10–12 cm (4–5 in) plastic or terracotta pots for initial potting; larger 15–20 cm pots if keeping longer.
– Potting mix: a free-draining, light mix — 50% good-quality peat-free compost or loam, 30% perlite or coarse sand, 20% well-rotted compost or coconut coir or commercially available potting soil from garden supplies shops.
– Labels: waterproof plant labels and a pencil or permanent marker.
– Tools: small hand trowel, sharp scissors or pruning shears, watering can with a fine rose.
– Fertilizer: balanced liquid feed (e.g., 10-10-10) or a diluted seaweed/organic feed; slow-release granules optional.
– Stakes/supports: small bamboo canes for early training if you expect windy spots.
Potting a rooted cutting — step-by-step
1. Prepare the pot and mix: fill the 10–12 cm pot with your pre-moistened potting mix, leaving enough space to insert the rooted ball into the pot. You can try out with a rooted cutting that is still in its original container.
2. Remove the cutting gently from its transport container, keeping the root ball intact.
3. Create a hole in the centre of the pot with your finger or a garden tool of your choice. Set the cutting so the roots sit just below the soil surface and the first pair of true leaves is above soil level.
4. Firm the mix gently around the roots — not so hard that drainage is impeded, but firm enough to remove air pockets.
5. Water lightly until water drains from the bottom; allow the top 1–2 cm of mix to dry slightly between waterings.
6. Label with variety and date. Place the pot in bright, indirect light for the first several days.
Light, temperature, and humidity basics
– Light: Bright, indirect light is ideal initially. After a week or so, move plants to stronger light (a sheltered, sunny windowsill or a sheltered spot outdoors) but avoid harsh midday sun for recently potted cuttings.
– Temperature: Keep daytime temps consistently between 15–22°C (59–72°F). Night temperatures above 10°C (50°F) are safest; Bloomlier ships between May and June to avoid freezing risk.
– Humidity: Moderate humidity helps newly potted cuttings. In dry indoor air, a humidity tray or occasional misting in the morning can help—avoid constant leaf wetness to reduce fungal risk.
Watering and feeding schedule for the first 8 weeks of planting
Weeks 0–2: Water sparingly but consistently. Keep the mix slightly moist, not waterlogged. Check pots every 2–3 days. No fertilizer in the first week to avoid root burn.
Weeks 2–4: Begin feeding with a diluted balanced liquid feed every 10–14 days at half of the strength indicated on the label of the product. Increase watering slightly as shoots show new growth.
Weeks 4–8: Move to a regular feed schedule — liquid feed every 7–10 days or a single application of slow-release granules at label rate. Watch plant vigour and adjust.
Pinching
For many varieties, pinching the growing tip at 2–4 nodes encourages bushier habit and more stems from the dahlia plant. Some specialty varieties perform best unpinched to preserve a single strong stem for large blooms. It is a personal choice as whether to pinch or not. You can always experiment for one year to decide what works better for you.
Common early problems and fixes
– Wilting after potting: usually from water stress—give a thorough drink and keep in humid, sheltered light until recovered.
– Yellow lower leaves: often overwatering—allow the top 1–2 cm to dry and reduce watering frequency and amount.
– Leggy growth: too little light—move to brighter spot or increase daylength with supplemental light.
– Sticky or distorted leaves: early aphid or thrips presence—spray with a strong jet of water or use insecticidal soap.
– Black, soft stems at the soil line: stem rot from poor drainage—repot to fresh, free-draining mix and discard badly affected cuttings.
When and how to transplant outdoors
Hold plants indoors or in sheltered conditions for 2–4 weeks if in 10 cm pots; they’ll develop stronger roots and sturdier shoots. Harden off for 3-5 days: place outside in sheltered shade for a few hours, gradually increasing sun and time each day. Plant out when night temperatures reliably stay above 10°C (50°F) and soil is workable. Planting steps:
– Prepare soil: dig in compost and ensure good drainage.
– Spacing: 30–60 cm depending on variety height and available space in your growing area.
– Plant depth: set so the crown is at soil level or 3-5 cm lower than soil level; firm in and water well. If you decide to plant the cutting at 3-5 cm lower than soil level, consider removing the lowest pair of leaves.
– Support: stake taller varieties at planting time to avoid root/tuber disturbance later.
Simple troubleshooting checklist
– No new growth in 2 weeks: check roots for rot, ensure warmth and light and good drainage.
– Yellowing and soft leaves: reduce watering; check drainage.
– Pests visible: isolate plant, treat with insecticidal soap.
– Sudden wilting across several plants: check for cold drafts or a cooling spell; move to warmer conditions.
Final note
Bloomlier’s cuttings arrive robust—with at least three pairs of true leaves and ready to grow. Treat them kindly for the first weeks, and they’ll reward you with vigorous summer blooms and stems perfect for bouquets. If you run into trouble, reach out with photos; we’ll help you troubleshoot and get your garden growing.